Not all skincare ingredients are BFFs. Some are more like exes who should never be in the same room again.

Why Skincare Pairing Matters

Active ingredients are like overachievers in your skincare routine. They do the heavy lifting by exfoliating, brightening, firming, smoothing, etc. But things can go sideways fast when you start mixing too many of them together (especially the wrong ones). Redness. Irritation. Peeling. Dry patches that weren’t there yesterday. You get the idea.

Fortunately, we take this into consideration for the twentyfour product line. All of our products play well with others, no matter what else you have in your routine. So you can rest assured that our ingredients won’t cause any issues.

If you’ve ever wondered why layering certain products seems to make your skin worse, you’re not alone. This guide breaks down how active ingredients interact, what pairs well, what doesn’t, and how to keep your skin content.

The Science Behind Why Ingredients Clash

The science of skincare combinations can help us understand how to prevent our faces from spontaneously combusting. Here are a few examples of bad pairing problems:

• pH Conflicts: Some ingredients need acidic environments, while others prefer neutral environments. Throw them together and things get dry, sensitive, flaky, all of it.

• Barrier Disruption: Double up on harsh actives and your skin barrier will start to break down.

• Irritation Overload: The more aggressive ingredients you mix, the more likely your skin will throw a tantrum.

• Photosensitivity: Some actives make your skin extra sensitive to sunlight. In case you missed the memo, this is not ideal.

Moral of the story? Skincare isn’t salad. You can’t just toss everything together and hope it works.

A Deep Dive Into Popular Active Ingredients

Let’s talk about a few heavy hitters in the skincare world and why they don’t get along.

Retinol: Skincare’s Most High-Maintenance Friend

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. It increases skin cell turnover, supports regular removal of dead skin cells, and combats free radicals to prevent cellular damage. But it’s also a bit of a diva.

It’s known for causing dryness, redness, and sensitivity. It’s photosensitive and should only be applied in the evening. Pregnant women, lactating women, and mothers-to-be shouldn’t even consider it. As you can see, it doesn’t like to share the stage with anyone.

If you use retinol, do so with caution. Work it into your routine slowly to acclimate the skin and minimize damage. Be extremely careful paring retinol with other active ingredients, or you’ll risk weakening the skin barrier and causing redness, dehydration, and tightness. 

Don’t Mix With:

• AHAs (glycolic, lactic acid)

• BHAs (salicylic acid)

• PHAs (lactobionic acid)

• Vitamin C

Safe Pairings:

• Ceramides

• Hyaluronic acid

• Niacinamide

• Peptides

Vitamin C: The Brightener With A Short Fuse

Vitamin C is great at fighting free radicals, brightening skin, and making your complexion look like it got 8 hours of sleep. But it’s picky and unstable. It needs a specific pH to work. If you disrupt that by throwing acids or other actives on top, it can destabilize the pH balance of your skin. Say goodbye to benefits and hello to sensitivity.

Thinking about pairing retinol and vitamin C? Stop that. 

With that being said, the gentler form of retinol (retinyl palmitate) may be a less risky partner for vitamin C. BUT…we recommend this ONLY if it's in a single, well-formulated product. That means the pH, concentrations, and stability have already been tested by professionals in lab coats.

If you're just layering two random products from your bathroom shelf, please don't.

Instead, here’s a pro tip from skincare experts. Use Vitamin C in the morning and layer a broad-spectrum SPF on top. The SPF product will shield the skin from UV rays while the vitamin C combats free radical damage caused by UV exposure. A perfect one-two punch.

Don’t Mix With:

• Retinol

• AHAs and BHAs

• Niacinamide (unless it’s formulated specifically for vitamin C)

Safe Pairings:

• Ferulic acid

• Vitamin E

• Hydrating serums

• Broad-spectrum SPF

AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs: Exfoliants With Varying Degrees of Sass

Here’s a brief recap of the abbreviations:

• AHAs: Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid)

• BHAs: Beta-Hydroxy Acids (e.g. salicylic acid)

• PHAs: Poly-Hydroxy Acids (e.g. gluconolactone, lactobionic acid)

These are chemical exfoliants, and they’re great at dissolving dead skin cells and smoothing rough texture. Unfortunately, they don’t know when to stop. They’re powerful and layering too many of them will wreck your skin barrier. 

Don’t Mix With:

• Retinol

• Vitamin C

• Other exfoliants

Safe Pairings:

• Soothing ingredients (e.g. aloe, green tea, centella asiatica)

• Humectants (e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid)

Clinical Spotlight: Daily UV Defense

Our SmartyPantsChemist™ recommends Daily UV Defense by CielementsMD. 

This product not only combats free-radical damage but also protects the skin from UV-induced DNA damage and epidermal thickening. In other words, it actively fights the oxidative stress and inflammation that follows UV exposure. It works by encapsulating CBD for next-level skincare protection using patented sustained-release technology from Zylo Therapeutics®. A clinical, peer-reviewed study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology demonstrated the power of this formulation (see “Topical Nanoencapsulated Cannabidiol Cream as an Innovative Strategy Combatting UVA-Induced Nuclear and Mitochondrial DNA Injury: A Pilot Randomized Clinical Study” by Erika McCormick MD, et al.).

Basically, it’s like SPF, but it works smarter and harder.

Quick Reference: Ingredient Combo Cheat Sheet

Sometimes you just need a cheat sheet. So, we made one for you. Thank us later when your skin is happier.

 

Final Thoughts: Know The Rules Before You Break Them

Skincare is chemistry, and playing chemist with your products is tempting. But unless your idea of fun is a bright red T-zone and flaky cheeks, it’s worth learning what not to mix. You don’t need a PhD to get it right, but a little guidance from those with a PhD can go a long way. 

Start slow. Pay attention to your skin. Read your labels. Don’t chase every trend on social media. When in doubt, keep it simple. Or you could just stick with products that are smartly formulated, such as StepZero™ or HYDRÍQ™.

Glowing skin shouldn’t come at the cost of your skin barrier.